The enticing banquet on the cover of Salamati hints at the delights contained in this great new recipe book. The food is framed by the shape of a traditional Persian window – inviting readers to look inside for insights into Persian food, culture and lifestyle. Hamed is an enthusiastic chef and restaurateur who left Iran and settled in Australia with his partner after a long and challenging journey as a refugee. Eventually he opened SalamaTea (a play on the word Salamati, meaning ‘cheers’ and ‘good health’) which is a café by day and Persian restaurant by night. It’s located in Sunshine, in Melbourne’s western suburbs. Hamed is both happy and grateful to have had the opportunity to introduce Persian food and culture to Australia. He employs other refugees and asylum seekers, giving them the chance to gain work experience in their new homeland.
Hamed, says co-author Dani Valent, cooks to connect – and to “shine a light on his Persian past”. His goal is for every Australian to try Persian food – and now New Zealanders who have a go at the recipes in Salamati can experience these delicious and nourishing dishes too. The recipes will appeal to anyone who is keen on – or curious about – Middle Eastern food.
Many of Hamed’s earliest memories are of preparing food and gathering with others to share it in his homeland of Iran. (He prefers to say he is from Persia, rather than Iran, for reasons outlined in his book.) As a little boy, he set out breakfast for his family each day – ‘bread, cheese, walnuts, butter, tahini, and grape molasses’. As he grew older, he and his friends often helped out at the local mosque, peeling enormous quantities of onions and keeping a watchful eye on massive pots of rice. It was at the mosque that Hamed developed his love of cooking for crowds. Yet it took some time for him to become an accomplished chef. When he first lived away from home he survived on junk food before mastering Persian cooking, drawing on his mother’s expertise: ‘I called my mother at every step…to talk me through the process…”. Later he gained experience in many different places – such as bakeries and coffee houses – constantly learning and mastering new techniques.
Hamed’s recipes are enticing and most use ingredients that are readily available in New Zealand. Eggplants, dates and pomegranates (the national fruit of Iran) feature prominently. Some of the recipes are traditional, others Hamed has developed since living in Australia. His Mast Laboo (beetroot dip) is already one of my favourites. There’s a brief section on essential ingredients and techniques, and although I had not heard of some of the herbs and spices listed almost all are available either at local supermarkets or online. For ingredients that may not be quite as easy to find – such as the dried fruit aloo bokhara – Hamed suggests alternatives, in this case dried apricots. Hamed is open to shortcuts too. No time to soak chickpeas for hummus? Tinned chickpeas are fine too, he reassures.
Salamati’s chapters include Brunch, Dips and Snacks, Starters, Sides & Street Food, Salads, Soups, Mains, Pickles & Preserves, Sweets and Drinks. There’s a separate vegetarian Mains chapter too, although many of the recipes in other chapters are either already plant-based or easily adaptable to vegetarian. There are several fish dishes, for example Tray-baked Saffron Salmon – which Hamed describes as “a Western idea, but with Persian flavours”, including pomegranate molasses.
Above each recipe is a short and interesting story about something in the recipe that follows – such as the idea that sparked the recipe, how or where the food is typically served, suitable side dishes, and even one or two secrets from Hamed’s childhood adventures. The prep time, cook time, and number of serves are shown. Prep time for many meals is around 20 minutes or less (and some take as little as 5 minutes) using equipment that most kitchens would have. Quantities are measured in cups, grams and mls – helpful for cooks without scales, or those who prefer to use cups or are not familiar with the metric system. The steps are straightforward and include suggestions for garnishes and presentation. The index is easy to follow and includes categorization by key ingredient, as well as by title.
The list of ingredients for some recipes at first glance may appear long, but it’s soon apparent that the list includes lots of herbs and spices to enhance the flavour. The combinations are appealing – and although I didn’t get to try all the recipes, many have sparked my interest. For example, Hamed’s breakfast omelette, a recipe of his father’s that includes feta, walnut and mint. Not all the omelettes are savoury – there’s a date and cinnamon omelette too.
I wondered about one or two steps, perhaps Hamed’s equipment differs from mine. For example, Hamed suggests that herbs and garlic for his Dalal dip would need to be blitzed in a food processor for 10-15 minutes, which seems a long time.
There are photos of most recipes and double-page spreads of some superb-looking banquets. The background colour scheme for the recipe pages is of gentle pastels, complemented by colourful images of textiles, food, and drink.
Salamati would be a great addition to any kitchen, given the range of interesting ways of preparing authentic Persian food with fresh ingredients. Hamed is keen to encourage everyone to try his recipes and stands proudly behind them. How can you resist his guarantee that his Tompom Salad turns its three key ingredients into a work of art? “I promise that there will be lots of ‘oohs’ and ‘wows' when you put this dish on the table!”
Reviewer: Anne Kerslake Hendricks
Allen & Unwin