Ngā Kakahu Māori o Mua by Hirini Moko Mead

Ngā Kākahu Māori o Mua by Hirini Moko Mead stands as both a scholarly landmark and a cultural taonga, bringing renewed attention to the depth and sophistication of Māori clothing traditions. Originating from research first completed in the late 1960s, this work has been carefully reintroduced for contemporary readers, retaining its academic rigour while gaining new relevance in a revitalised cultural landscape.

The book begins by mapping the range of garments present during the late eighteenth century, grounding its exploration in the materials, techniques and purposes that shaped their creation. From there, it traces the evolution of these forms across time, examining how shifts in environment, contact and social structures influenced both design and function. The result is not simply a catalogue of garments but a layered account of adaptation and continuity.

What emerges most clearly is the intricate relationship between clothing and identity. Cloaks, piupiu and rain capes are not treated as static artefacts but as expressions of status, whakapapa and environmental knowledge. The detailed attention given to weaving techniques, fibre preparation and decorative patterning reveals a system of knowledge that is both technical and deeply symbolic. Mead’s approach ensures that these practices are understood as living traditions rather than relics of the past.

The visual dimension of the book is equally significant. Rich illustrations and photographs provide clarity and texture, allowing readers to appreciate the craftsmanship and variation within each garment type. These images work in tandem with the text, reinforcing the sense that this is a study grounded in close observation and respect for source material, including museum collections and oral knowledge.

There is also a quiet authority in the writing itself. Mead does not overstate his case, instead allowing the accumulation of detail to speak for the richness of the subject. This measured style makes the work accessible without diminishing its scholarly weight, opening it to a wide readership that includes both specialists and those newly engaging with Māori material culture.

The tradition of weaving with materials such as muka is brought back to life through this meticulously researched and beautifully constructed book. Celebrating who we are as a people, and as a nation, and as the skills involved with mastering this art, it provides detailed steps of how to pull this craft back from the brink.  Something truly which is worthy in our modern times.

As a contribution to Māori studies, Ngā Kākahu Māori o Mua carries enduring significance. It reflects a lifetime of commitment to the preservation and transmission of knowledge, while also supporting ongoing practice among contemporary weavers. More broadly, it affirms the importance of situating material culture within its full cultural and historical context, offering a model for how research can honour both tradition and change.

Reviewer: Chris Reed

Huia Publishers